A Gastronomic Guide to Georgia: The Country's Best Wineries and Restaurants
Georgia is rapidly gaining recognition as an adventure travel destination, known for its world-class hiking and off-piste skiing in the Greater Caucasus mountains. However, it’s the country’s vibrant vineyards and kitchens that are truly captivating visitors, offering a unique blend of local wines and field-to-fork cuisine.
Situated at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Georgia boasts a diverse culinary landscape. The country’s dozen climatic zones, ranging from subtropical to high alpine and semi-desert, provide a bounty of produce, including 500 indigenous grape varieties. Georgian cuisine is renowned for its fragrant stews, bright salads, and earthy soups, all crafted with centuries-old techniques. Generosity is a hallmark of Georgian hospitality, whether at a family-run vineyard or a bustling restaurant, where tables often overflow with dishes. Here’s a guide to some of the best wining-and-dining experiences in Georgia.
From Grape to Glass
Giuaani Winery, Manavi
Located near Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi, Giuaani is a family-owned winery tracing its roots back to 1894. Here, head winemaker Giorgi Jmukhadze uses traditional qvevri (clay winemaking vessels) alongside oak barrels and steel tanks. Visitors can sample a range of wines, including the classic dry amber khikhvi and a lively rosé blending cabernet sauvignon and tavkveri grapes.
Kvareli Wine Cave, Kakheti
In the Kakheti region, the Kvareli Wine Cave, operated by Khareba, offers an immersive wine experience. This four-and-a-half-mile network of tunnels, originally constructed for military purposes during the Cold War, now provides perfect conditions for aging and storing wine. A guided tour culminates in a tasting of Khareba’s extensive collection.
Royal Khvanchkara, Ambrolauri
In the Racha region’s small city of Ambrolauri, the Royal Khvanchkara winery stands out. Famous for its Khvanchkara wine, a sweet red made from aleksandrouli and mujuretuli grapes, the winery offers tours that delve into the area’s rich winemaking heritage. Headed by 11th-generation vintner Lado Uzunashvili, the winery revives traditions from the Stalin era.
From Field to Fork
Cafe Littera, Tbilisi
Set in the courtyard of the Writers’ House, a mansion built for philanthropist David Sarajishvili, Cafe Littera is ideal for al fresco dining. Chef Tekuna Gachechiladze, known for her innovative take on Georgian cuisine, uses local produce to create dishes like chilled sorrel and mint soup, fig carpaccio with Tushetian guda cheese, and veal tartare with local truffles.
Doli, Kutaisi
In Kutaisi, a UNESCO Creative City of Literature, Doli restaurant evokes the intimacy of a writers’ salon. Here, chef Giorgi Andghuladze serves traditional dishes like gobi, a wooden bowl filled with a variety of vibrant pkhali (vegetable pâté) and mchadi (Georgian cornbread) cooked in stacked clay pans.
Diaroni, Zugdidi
In Zugdidi, the capital of the Samegrelo region, Diaroni restaurant is known for its live folk music and flavorful dishes. Specialties include kharcho, a stew with a walnut sauce and fiery ajika, and elarji, a cornmeal dish with stringy cheese, dramatically twirled and served by the staff.
Oval, Batumi
On the Black Sea Coast in Batumi, Oval restaurant offers fresh seafood with Georgian and Asian flavors. Dishes like tom yam shrimp, mussels in a tarragon-heavy broth, and a decadent version of adjaruli khachapuri with rare tenili cheese showcase chef Guram Bagdhoshvili’s culinary prowess and Meskheti heritage.
Georgia’s culinary scene, rich with history and innovation, invites travelers to explore its diverse flavors and traditions. Whether savoring local wines or indulging in regional dishes, visitors are sure to experience the heartfelt hospitality and gastronomic delights that define Georgian culture.