Parisian Cafés and Immigration: A Complex Relationship

On Rue Bretagne, one of Paris's renowned bar streets, Le Pinardier's terrace is a summer hotspot. Here, patrons enjoy fine wines and charcuterie, a classic French experience. Yet, this scene is sustained by an often overlooked and divisive issue: immigration.

At the heart of Le Pinardier's operation is Sazal Saha, a 24-year-old chef from Kuhlna, Bangladesh. For the past five years, Saha has managed the kitchen, handling everything from purchasing ingredients to cooking and cleaning. His journey to Paris involved two years of catering training at the Joliet-Curie School in northern France. Despite the challenges of running a kitchen alone, Saha has adapted and thrived.

Across France, particularly in Paris, the hospitality industry heavily relies on immigrant workers. Approximately 25% of cooks in France come from outside the European Union, according to French Labor Minister Olivier Dussopt in early 2024. In Paris, nearly half of the chefs are immigrants, as per data from the French National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies in 2022. These workers are essential to the city's vibrant culinary scene.

Florian Mousson, the owner of Le Pinardier, emphasizes the importance of immigrant workers. Born into a family of restaurateurs in Marseille, Mousson acknowledges that his business couldn't survive without them. Despite the significant contributions of immigrants, anti-immigration sentiments have been rising, fueled by the popularity of the far-right party, Rassemblement National (National Rally), in recent French parliamentary elections.

In Paris, many kitchen staff hail from South Asia, while in southern France, like Mousson’s hometown of Marseille, restaurants often rely on immigrants from the Comoros. Mousson notes the demanding nature of kitchen work—long hours, high heat, and physical strain—conditions fewer French people are willing to endure. He hired Saha through the website Leboncoin and values him for his hard work and teamwork.

Some argue that immigrants are hired because they are cheaper labor, but Mousson refutes this. The main issue is the lack of French candidates willing to do such challenging work. Saha, who earns a good salary due to his long hours, appreciates the opportunities he's found in Paris, though he's concerned about the potential impact of far-right immigration policies.

Despite these worries, Saha remains hopeful about his future in France. Proud of his role in a French restaurant, he continues to look forward to building his life in the country he has grown to love.